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Defects and Solution

Algae-fungus

Mould growths are unsightly and can be destructive to paint coatings. Moisture is an essential requirement for the development and growth of moulds. Algal growths are most likely to occur in damp conditions or on surfaces with a high moisture content. Algae growth on exterior masonry can be a problem in sheltered environments that are in close proximity to trees and bushes. Isolated algae growth on the exterior of buildings may indicate some form of structural defect and should be investigated by a reputable builder or building surveyor. Fungal growth can also be a problem inside where the surface is damp.

Solution: Repair the source of any leaks. Check for blocked air bricks and defective or missing DPC (Damp Proof Course). Clean/ remove algae/fungas growth with the help of brush and water. Apply one coat of Godavari Bio-wash Leave for 24 hours, wash down to remove residues and allow to dry thoroughly. Dark patches of algal growth apparently growing through the paint film may well have become entrapped at a previous decoration. Finish with two coats of PEARL- MAX OR PEARL-ULTIMA OR PEARL 100% Acrylic Finish OR COLORTEX OR KLASSIC.
Bleeding

The cause of such problems are usually the underlying surface. There are many different examples such phenomenon, as old wall coverings, bituminous painted surfaces, old creosote, felt tip pens etc. This may also be caused by poor application leading to improper coverage of the underneath substrate.

Solution: Where the problem has been caused by an old wall covering, it should be completely removed. In all other cases the surface should be sealed with COLORSOL Stabilizing Solution prior to re-decorating. In case of improper coverage one more coat of paint may be given to obliterate the patchiness.
Cracking-outside

This is characterized by a pattern of short, narrow breaks in the top layer of the paint. Cracking usually develops as the paint begins to lose its flexibility and no longer expands and contracts with the substrate. The problem is worse on surfaces which have received numerous coats of paint or where particularly thick coats have been applied.

Solution: Small areas of cracking can be treated by scraping and rubbing down. Large areas should be completely removed by using a hot air gun or suitable chemical paint remover For best results, prime bare surfaces with one coat of COLORSOL Stabilzing Solution followed by two coats of PEARL- MAX OR PEARL-ULTIMA OR PEARL 100% Acrylic Finish OR COLORTEX OR KLASSIC.
Combined_bleeding

The cause of such problems are usually the underlying surface. There are many different examples such phenomenon, as old wall coverings, bituminous painted surfaces, old creosote, felt tip pens etc. This may also be caused by poor application leading to improper coverage of the underneath substrate.

Solution: Where the problem has been caused by an old wall covering, it should be completely removed. In all other cases the surface should be sealed with COLORSOL Stabilizing Solution prior to re-decorating. In case of improper coverage one more coat of paint may be given to obliterate the patchiness.

Cracking of Plaster

The development of small cracks on inside plaster walls and ceilings is not unusual and is normally the result of drying out, (in the case of new houses) or movement of the building. Large cracks that appear to be getting wider should be investigated by a building surveyor.

Solution: Cut out all cracks and dust to remove debris. Fill the crack with SUPREM Wall Putty interior filler in accordance with the manufacturers instructions for use. Allow to dry, then rub down smooth and dust off.
Dampness

Where damp is a problem it may be due to a defective or missing Damp Proof Course (DPC), broken or defective rainwater pipes and gutters, defective pointing in brickwork, solid wall construction, condensation or some other general building defect.

Solution: The source of the dampness should be found and cured. The surface must be allowed to completely dry before painting. Where a water stain remains once the surface is dry, this should be primed with UNO Waterproofing Sealer Coat.
Dust/Bittiness

Dust/bittiness in the paint film is generally caused by dust or dirt in the atmosphere settling on the surface during or after application. Sometimes, when the scuffed surface is not cleaned properly, loosely adhered scuffed particles may get mixed with the paint while brushing & causes such problem. It can also be caused by using a dirty paint brush or by stirring skin into the paint.

Solution: If the finish is unacceptable, allow the paint to dry and thoroughly harden before rubbing down, using ‘wet or dry’ abrasive paper and warm water, with a little detergent added. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow to dry before repainting. Only use good quality paint brushes, which are clean and free from bits. It is advisable to wash the brush out before starting work. Ensure that the brush is completely dry again before starting work. If the surrounding is open to dust it should be covered externally at the time of painting and till the paint attains surface dry condition to avoid external dust.
Efflorescence

Efflorescence is caused by the crystallization of salts found in building materials such as bricks. It appears either as patches of fluffy crystal or as a hard shiny film on both internal and external surfaces. It is most commonly seen on new exterior brickwork. Paint should not be applied until the efflorescence has ceased to appear and has been removed.

Solution: Remove fluffy efflorescence deposits with a coarse hessian sacking. Repeat the process every few days until no more appears. Hard shiny efflorescence should be sanded to roughen the surface. The surface should be properly cleaned before painting. Apply one coat of UNO Waterproofing Sealer Coat followed by two coats of PEARL- MAX OR PEARL-ULTIMA OR PEARL 100% Acrylic Finish OR COLORTEX OR KLASSIC. On new buildings it is advisable not to hang wall coverings for at least 12 months. This allows the surface time to dry out thoroughly.
Flaking-blistering

The most common cause of flaking or blistering is moisture beneath the paint film. In addition, flaking or blistering can occur if the paint was applied over dirt, oil, grease or other form of surface contamination. Water-based coatings such as PEARL- MAX OR PEARL-ULTIMA OR PEARL 100% Acrylic Finish OR COLORTEX OR KLASSIC may blister if they are applied over surfaces that have been previously painted with solvent-based paints. This results in a hard, glossy surface. Another common cause is if the surface was not adequately prepared and was still powdery and friable when painted.

Solution: Scrape back to a firm edge all areas of poorly adhering coating. Abrade shiny surfaces with abrasive paper. Repaint with one of COLORSOL Stabilsing Solution and two coats of PEARL- MAX OR PEARL-ULTIMA OR PEARL 100% Acrylic Finish OR COLORTEX OR KLASSIC.
Flaking-paint

Flaking has a number of causes. Moisture beneath the paint film is the most common cause. Flaking can also occur if the paint has been applied over dirt, oil, grease or previously gloss painted surface, in the case of conventional emulsion paints. Flaking can also be a problem if the surface was inadequately prepared, eg powdery or friable when painted.

Solution: Scrape back to a firm edge all areas of poorly adhering coating. Abrade shiny surfaces with abrasive paper. Repaint with one coat of GODAVARI Water Base Primer & Two Coats of Godavari Premium Emulsion Paint or Smooth Emulsion Paint.
Lack of Film

A lack of adequate film thickness is often the cause of premature rusting on sharp edges and angles, where there is only a thin film of paint.

Solution: Apply paint at slightly higher viscosity for better edge coverage with fast evaporating thinner. For additional care from rusting from the sharp edges, apply an extra coat of Godavari Red Oxide Metal Primer to all edges and in corners.
Mud cracking

The most likely cause of mud cracking is applying a thick, heavy coat of paint to a textured or embossed surface. It is commonly found on surfaces like pebbledash where one unthinned coat has been applied.

Solution: Apply one or two thin coats rather than a thick coat. Once mud cracking has occurred it requires skill to fill in the cracks with appropriate filler. This should be followed by application of one or two coat of thinned paint.
Paint-leaves

This problem is caused by painting over a surface contaminated by oil, grease, wax or polish. The paint cannot adhere to the surface and draws back leaving unpainted areas, usually in the form of small spots.

Solution: Allow the surface to dry then rub down using ‘wet or dry’ abrasive paper and a solution of warm water and detergent. Rinse with clean water and allow to dry. Then follow the painting procedure.
Plasticizer

This problem occurs when there is a reaction between the plasticizer in the substrate and the paint which has been applied over it. A typical example is where a cheap silk emulsion paint has been applied over a heavily plasticized vinyl wall covering. The result is sticky patches which are often shinny. In severe cases the effect could be overall.

Solution: Apply one or two coats of UNO WATERPROOFING SEALER. This will act as barrier coat to preventing plasticizer migration from the underneath coat to the top coat.
Poor-gloss

The most likely cause of poor gloss level on newly painted surfaces is condensation forming on the surface soon after painting. This can be a result of painting in cold damp conditions or painting externally at low temperatures and when there is a likelihood of rain or frost.

Solution: When conditions improve and coating is hard dried, carefully rub down the affected area, to provide a key to the subsequent coat and apply another coat of finish.
Poor-surface

Painting over rust can result in the paint film flaking because the rust has little or no adhesion to the parent metal. Rust may also break through the paint film when a combination of rust and moisture produces an electrochemical cell. This often occurs on hand prepared metalwork where the surface is pitted.

Solution: Chip, scrap and wire brush to remove all loose or blistered paint. Then, spot prime (touching in locally the bared areas) with Godavari Red Oxide Metal Primer
Powdery-chacky-exterior

Brick and masonry surfaces outside that have been previously painted with a cement based paint will eventually start to erode, causing the surface to become powdery or chalky. Masonry that has never been painted such as pebbledash or render may well become friable with age.

Solution: Ensure the surface is sound, clean and dry. Use a stiff brush and paint scraper to remove all loose material. If after thorough preparation a powdery chalky residue still remains then stabilise the surface with one coat of COLORSOL Stabilizing Solution followed by two normal coats of PEARL- MAX OR PEARL-ULTIMA OR PEARL 100% Acrylic Finish OR COLORTEX OR KLASSIC.
Powdery-chacky-outside

Powdery or chalky old paintwork is usually caused by the wearing away of the paint film due to exposure to the weather. These chalky deposits are caused by the natural erosion process of the paint coating.

Solution: Powdery or chalky old paintwork can often be removed by simply washing down. The cleaned surface will not have the original appearance. If necessary, one coat of the same paint may be given after the surface is fully dried.
Powdery-chacky-plaster

This problem is most likely to be found in older properties that have been painted with soft distemper or whitewash.

Solution: These surface coatings should be completely removed by washing with warm water and detergent solutions. Rinse with clean water, taking care to change the rinsing water regularly. If after thorough preparation the surface is still slightly powdery it may be necessary to seal it with one coat of UNO WATERPROOFING SEALER prior to finishing.
Sags-runs

The usual cause of sags/runs on new paintwork is uneven application to broad flat surfaces or over application to mouldings or rough, contoured surfaces. Failure to join up ‘wet edges’ before they have set may result in excessive film thickness and sagging/running.

Solution: When the paint film is thoroughly dry, the sags/runs should be rubbed down until smooth using ‘wet or dry’ abrasive paper and warm water, with a little detergent added. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow to dry before repainting. When painting broad flat areas work systematically and brush each section into the next, cross brushing and finally, using vertical strokes gently lay off along the length of the surface. While applying paint over contoured surface, ensure that the top portion does not have excessive paint that may flow down at the contours & also continue brushing at the lower end of the contour till excessive paint flowing from the top is either removed or evenly spread.
Shrivelling

Shrivelling or wrinkling of new paintwork occurs when the paint dries too quickly forming a surface skin before the paint underneath can dry properly. Shrivelling is likely to be worse if a thick coat of paint has been applied. Shrivelling often results when solvent-based paints are applied at low temperatures.

Solution: Allow the surface to dry and harden, then rub down using ‘wet or dry’ abrasive paper and warm water, with a little detergent added. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow to dry before applying another coat of the same finish.
Slow-drying

The most likely cause of slow drying solvent-based paints and varnish is some form of surface contamination resulting from an inadequately prepared surface. It is also affected due to ambient conditions, like very low temperature, high humidity or poor airation. Slow drying of water-based paints is most likely to be caused by painting in cold damp conditions

Solution: It may be possible to remove the wet solvent-based paint using cloths dipped in white spirit (Wear suitable eye protection for this). If this is not possible then it may be necessary to completely remove all the coatings using a hot air gun or a suitable chemical paint remover. Water-based paints will simply wash off with a warm water and detergent solution. Repainting is recommended, when the weather conditions are conducive for painting.
Staining-discolouration1

Brown stains that appear on emulsion paint inside may be the result of a past leaking or burst water pipe.

Solution: Ensure the source of the leak has been repaired and that the surface is thoroughly dry. Rub off the affected area clean and dry it properly. Treat the stain with UNO WATERPROOFING SEALER before repainting.
Staining-discolouration2

Staining can also be caused by heavy deposits of tobacco tar from cigarette smoke particularly on ceilings inside. This staining and discolouration tends to be worse on water-based emulsion paints than with conventional solvent-based finishes such as Gloss.

Solution: Wash the surface thoroughly with a solution of warm water and detergent, rinse with clean water and allow it to dry. Seal with UNO WATERPROOFING SEALER. Then apply same top coat as per its recommendation.